welcome to the haikutimes
Issue #-3, Grand Gulch Backpack, March 1983
Writing and photography by Jonathan, plus photo contributions by Nick Brown
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Farrand Field, University of Colorado, from Room 285 of Farrand hall, March 18, 1983
Spring Break, March 20, 1983.
I am buried in my sleeping bag in my tent in the campground at Natural Bridges, Utah. Today is Sunday, March 20. Friday afternoon Nicholas (Brown), Joe (Rink), Jim (Kastner) and I piled in Nick‘s white Volvo and headed out of Boulder, amidst the snow. About a foot had accumulated on campus, and there was reportedly lots in the mountains, so we were worried about the drive.
We went through Eisenhower tunnel, crested Vail Pass, and cruised west towards Utah. It snowed the whole way. A couple of times it was snowing so hard that we had to stop. I was tense. I wish somehow I could get over that worried mind-set.
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Somewhere out in Utah, March 19, 1983
On I-70, before turning off to Moab, the snow was falling so hard that we decided to pull over and wait out the storm in the car. The guys decided that possibly we might be able to sleep in the car. Big laugh! I couldn’t even come close to being able to fall asleep. So, after the snow stopped, I got out and walked down the road a bit and checked out a deserted house. When I got back to the car, the guys were all awake. We decided to go on.
We drove until we reached a random rest stop. Nicholas and I crashed out in sleeping bags on top of picnic benches. I was wary about the situation: It was still snowing lightly and very cold, but the only other alternative was to try and sleep in the car, in which Joe and Jim were already crashed out. I managed to get about four hours of sleep on top of the picnic bench.
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Utah Landscape, March 19, 2023
The next morning we got up around seven and drove past Moab, Monticello, and down through Arches. It was pretty, but the power lines were ugly. We got to Natural Bridges around 2 PM. Steve Malmberg and his friend Thane, who had hitchhiked down from Montana, were there to meet us. We conversed with the Ranger a bit; he seemed very nice, but everyone else thought he was fresh out of Ranger Rick school.
On top of Sipapu Arch, photo by Nick
We set up our tents and got packed for a six-day trip. Preparations ready, we cruised out to see the Natural Bridges, first hiking down to see Siapupu Arch, which was spectacular, except for the metal staircases going down the cliffs. I suppose we wouldn’t have been able to stand on the arch, had the staircase and railings not been there!
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Unloading bags from Nick's white Volvo, trailhead
It started snowing heavily, looking dark and ominous. We drove to the next two bridges, briefly braving the snow (and lightning) to see them. When we got back to camp it quieted down enough for us to eat dinner. However, it soon started snowing again, just as I was fixing my hot chocolate. It snowed really hard. I was freaking out, trying to keep the weight of the snow off the tent.
I crashed early. Nick came in after a while when the snow had stopped, and woke me up. I don’t think I slept too well - It was kind of cold - but I guess I did sleep. I had a dream that took place at some university. Wes and I were riding bicycles, and he fell over a cliff - I watched him fall - and then he died. It was really upsetting.
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Jim unloading his gear at the trailhead
It was very cold this morning. We all got packed up in the car around 10am and drove to the Bullet Canyon trailhead. The roads were muddy, and Nick‘s car almost didn’t make it in some spots.
We finally packed up, hoisting our heavy backpacks, making our way down into the canyon, which was shallow at the outset. The sky: blue for a change, lifting my spirits. We hiked until 11:30 or so and took a lunch break. The hiking is great. This is really a primitive area, with no trails; we are basically following the stream, down into the Grand Gulch. The colors are spectacular, when the sun is out. Beautiful country!
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Heading down into Bullet Canyon
We briefly checked out Jailhouse Ruin, and now are camped at the confluence of Bullet Canyon and Grand Gulch. I am perched upon a shelf, adjacent to two small prehistoric ruins. These ruins are great! There are lots of corn husks and pottery shards strewn about.
The sun is going down. The canyon walls are reminiscent of the Yampa-Green, or even the Grand Canyon. I feel close to those places now. Well, my left thumb is freezing. More later!
Jon, photo by Nick Brown
Monday, March 21, 1983
When I last wrote, the sun was quickly fading, and there was much do; food to prepare, and camp to set up. Following the beautifully clear day we had, the stars and the moon were now visible, with a slight haze around the moon, which made me pause. That usually means some kind of inclement weather is on the way.
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Navigating a frozen pour-over, Bullet Canyon
Jim, Joe, Steve and Thane all slept in tents, while Nick and I slept under tree branches. I tried out Thane’s bivouac sack. It was really nice. He assured me it kept him warm and dry in snowstorms, and I stayed cozy all night.
We woke up to a gray-and-white shroud hanging over us like a wet blanket. Before I had anything to eat, I went to Bullet Canyon Springs and tried to find some water. I collected a quart, a painstaking process because it involved holding my canteen under a drip from an icicle.
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Thane and Steve Malmberg
I would like to write a bit about the guys I am with. It’s a pretty good group. There’s me, Nick, Steve Malmberg (who, like Nick and me, also went to Los Alamos High School). Steve is straight, and doesn’t touch drugs. He has blonde hair and dresses like I do, with the parka /wool pants / alpaca hat combination.
Along with Steve is Thane. I always think of ‘Thane of Glamis’, the lead character in Macbeth, whenever I hear his name. He has long curly brown hair and a quiet, sure, optimistic manner. He seems genuine. He says he’s backpacked a lot in Yellowstone. He is a history major in Montana, which is also where Steve goes to school.
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Bullet Canyon
With us also are Joe Rick and Jim Kastner. Joe is from Denver, but goes to school in Boulder. He’s kind of the ‘City Joe’, meaning not very used to backpacking. However, he is enthusiastic. He brought his tunes with him, something I would never do backpacking. But I do like him. He smokes a lot of pot with Jim, who also goes to school in Boulder. Jim is from New Jersey. It’s his first time out here. He seems to like it, I guess. He seems like a cool guy. I thought he hated me at first. It’s hard to tell, though.
Joe Rink, photo by Nick
Jim Kastner, photo by Nick
Today we started hiking pretty late. The canyon is really beautiful. I heard a Canyon Wren and saw several hawks. There are a multitude of far-out weeds that I am dying to sketch. Perhaps I can do so on a layover day.
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Nick Brown, after setting up the tent, Grand Gulch
We are in grand Gulch now. We had hoped to get to Drip Canyon, but we decided to camp a mile or so before it. We crossed the stream many times today! My feet got wet after so many incorrectly-judged landings. I could just wear my tennis shoes and walk through the water, but it feels too cold for that.
Sign of a stressful trip?
We inspected some neat ruins today. One had several kivas, with pieces of flat sandstone as doorways, and big living areas, all decorated with some sort of green paint. The doorways are all shaped like keyholes. I wonder why? It’s hard to imagine people living here.
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Snowfall in Grand Gulch
It’s raining lightly in the tent. We have the candle going, and it’s nice and cozy. Too bad Polly isn’t in here with me instead of Nick!
March 22, 1983
Today is the 22nd of March. It Is strange how things progressed since last night. When I finished writing, it was raining; pretty softly, at least. I guess I fell asleep for a while, but then I woke up again, noticing that the outside of my bag and the inside of the tent were sticking together in a wet sort of way. When I deduced that there was snow on the rain fly, I tried to push it off, but it didn’t move. I freaked out a little; got dressed (waking up Nick) and jumped outside. Snow! Lots of it!
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Snowfall over the tent, Grand Gulch
This time the snow was wet and dense, good for making snowballs. I brushed it off and re-adjusted the tent, putting two sticks under the middle of the tie-downs so the fly could be separated from the main tent. I tried to go back to sleep, but was uncomfortable (and a little tense). I finally dozed off, but Nick woke me up when I heard him exclaim, “Fuck”! When he looked outside.
There was about 4 inches of snow on the ground, with fat little flakes floating down from the gray sky above. My sleeping bag and pad were both soaked, as was the tent floor on my side. I rushed outside and kind of stood around, waiting for everyone to get up.
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Drying out on the ledge, Grand Gulch
What we finally did was to move everything up to the ledge underneath the overhang that Steve had found the evening before (where he had also suggested we set up camp). It was completely dry in spots, and the spots that weren’t completely dry were dry enough. We brought everything up to the ledge, spreading out our wet gear to dry. At least we have a dry place to sleep tonight! The snow is melting quickly, and water is pouring over every conceivable pour-over spot. To the left of our camp, water is coursing down in what looks like a mini flash-flood.
Jon's Jansport backpack
We figured out that we are now in Step Canyon, right over Step spring. We are staying here today. If it’s bad tomorrow, we will go back up to the Bullet / Grand Gulch confluence, to be closer to the car. I hope the weather stays nice!
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Snowy canyon, Grand Gulch
Right now the sun is shining and I am perched on the top of a marvelous sloping lump of terraced sandstone, looking at a panoramic view. All the runoff has created mini waterfalls, reminiscent of the Sierra Nevada, except here it’s all on sandstone, not granite. It’s incredible when the sun comes out! My whole attitude changes.
This place is such a playground, a mini river Canyon! If everything were increased in size about five times, it might reach the proportions of the Grand Canyon.
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Jim Kastner and Jonathan Machen in Grand Gulch
There’s no civilization, only me and some friends. Things here take time; the only evidence of which is the way the sandstone has been sculpted by the never-ending grind of water. Things are basically the same as when the Anasazi left. Their dwellings are everywhere, evidence of their existence. I feel as if I am in an area untouched by modern man. If I ever have children, will they experience any of this? Would it even be fair to bring them into the world? Who knows what the condition of the world may be, when I finally do?
The clouds are much puffier, with definite patches of blue scattered about, opening to spotted sunshine. It still looks like it could snow. No one can see me here, perched up on my roost like a king surveying his dominion. I have never seen a King survey his kingdom. That is the influence of education on me. I have not experienced it directly, only indirectly. So is it worthwhile to my life? I am so glad that I am here, and not home, at the moment. I meditated this morning, and even in my tense state, I felt it helped calm me.
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Nicholas on the day hike to the rim
March 23, 1983
I am writing with my gloves, it’s so cold. Yesterday we woke up fairly late and got prepared for a day hike up Dripping canyon. Joe, Jim, Nick and I went, leaving Steve and Thane to hang around camp. The hike was intense. There were many spots we had to cross. Not wanting to get my shoes wet, Nick and I tried to keep to the bank, and jump across where we could.
We finally got to Dripping Canyon, and headed up to the rim. The sky was full of puffy clouds. We found a spot to climb up and out, and once we got to the top, found large potholes full of water. We hung around and explored for a while, then headed back to camp. My hiking boots were now very wet,. It took Nick and me a long time to get back to camp. We spent agonizing moments in several spots poised on the river bank before jumping over the water. It is no fun to have wet feet!
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Pools of water on the rim
The night was perfectly clear. After dinner, we sat around the fire and discussed the question of wealth versus poverty. Joe was very honest in his feelings. He said, sure, there are starving people in this world, but I am not one of them. I have definite goals and I wish to attain them. If I am one of the humans on this earth who is able to live life in that way, let me, because if I don’t, someone else will.
Nicholas, Jonathan and Joe Rink on the rim
Steve, especially, was opposed to this way of thinking. His morals and ideals were completely opposite. He reminded me of Gandhi. I think Joe’s views were more realistic, but Steve’s position admirable. I said very little; I thought it better to observe and keep my thoughts to myself.
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Nicholas, Jonathan and Joe Rink on the rim
I had a bad dream early in the morning. I was crawling about on some roof, searching for pieces of scrap metal, and suddenly, in the corner of my eye, I saw a blinding flash of light. When I turned around, I saw an atomic blast, a huge orange and red mushroom cloud, which meant the end of everything. I screamed and woke up, looking around to make sure it was a dream. If that dreadful moment does happen, there will be no turning back. I hope I never see it. I am scared to death of nuclear war, perhaps made more aware of it by growing up in Los Alamos.
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Rim view, above Grand Gulch
When we woke up, it was gray and gloomy again. Soon, it started snowing. We threw all our stuff together (dry for the moment) and headed out. My head was - once again - full of anxiety. I wanted to keep my boots on, because I did not want to face walking in my running shoes through the freezing water. Soon, however, it became apparent that if we did not walk through the water, we would get nowhere fast. At this point, it had stopped snowing, but once we started walking through the water, it began to snow again. The combination of soaking wet feet and snow hit us like a train, with the specter of hypothermia rearing its head.
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Taking shelter under an overhang
Sure enough, Nicholas mentioned that his feet were getting too cold. Perhaps it would be wise to find some kind of shelter, and build a fire? I spotted an overhang, which we reached quickly: small but dry and sufficient, where we found enough dry wood to start a fire. Looking out from this perch, we could see the snow coming down in waves. The canyon was filled with white, gusting blankets of snow.
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Snowstorm from the overhang, where we attempted to warm up
Steve and Thane decided to hike on out, because Steve had only one pair of shoes, which were soaked. Once at the trailhead, their plan was to start hitchhiking to Montana. I hope they make it!
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Nicholas, hiking out of Grand Gulch
There ensued a long discussion between the four of us remaining of whether or not to go on. I complained that it would be stupid to continue to walk through the water in the snow, and so it was agreed try to keep our boots on, and stick to the bank. Finally, after the snow stopped around 2pm, we changed back into our sneakers, deciding to walk through the water. The thought of being closer to the car seemed much nicer than being holed up in grand Gulch, so we kept going.
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Nick Brown, Joe Rink, Jim Kastner, Grand Gulch
We cruised along the river bottom. Now, both of my shoes were soaked. The sun came out, only to disappear behind gray clouds, whereupon it snowed on us again. Finally, we came to the confluence of Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon. From there made the ramaining distance to Jailhouse ruin. We set up camp there, along with another couple and their dog, who also hailed from Colorado.
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Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
It is kind of neat camping in the same spot that the Anasazi did 700 years ago! (No doubt that would be illegal now). Jailhouse ruin is quite big and well preserved. There is a big hut with a roof, a kiva, and several other ruins of rooms. There are rocks all over with signs of corn grinding, lots of pottery shards, and corn husks.
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Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
March 25, 1983
Once again, I am cold. The sun is receding behind a bank of clouds. It looks like it will probably snow again today. We are hiking out, hopefully getting back to Boulder Saturday night. Time to go get something good to eat!
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Somebody's Dog, Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
(Later): the rest of the day was quite hectic. We stayed by the fire for a long time, just warming up and getting psyched for the march out. Amazingly, the sky cleared up. We got packed up and left our Anasazi camp. It was very pleasant walking, since the sun was now out, giving everything a cheerful countenance. Nicholas and I would have stayed another day, but both Joe and Jim were low on food and adamant on leaving and getting back to Boulder as soon as possible. I had enough food to remain, and I think I was more prepared than those guys. I had definitely been worried about the food situation before we left. As it was, Joe and Jim had just barely enough food to last.
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Hiking out of Bullet Canyon
The hike out went fast, as we were pretty close to the car. We stopped and had lunch at the difficult icy portage spot that we encountered on our way down. It only took us 40 minutes or so to get to the car from the lunch spot. When we got to the top of the canyon, there was a sea of mud, with no option other than to walk through the deep, squishy stuff.
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Hiking back to the car, Bullet Canyon
We threw our stuff in Nick’s white Volvo and started off, only to be stopped by a massive mud hill, after only 100 yards. The mud was so deep and thick from the melted snow that we had no traction and were unable to crest the hill. We tried several times, with no luck. Nick suggested that before putting his chains on, we might fill the tracks with bushes (it didn’t help). It began snowing again, with a corresponding drop in temperature. Finally, Nick put the chains on, and we made it out on the first try!
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The backpackers' perspective
We decided to drive straight through to Boulder. At one point, I took over driving until we reached Glenwood Springs. There, we were informed that Vail pass was closed because of snow. Nick and the others decided to go for it anyway. I was (again) really worried. Would that not be a dumb thing to do? However, we pressed on anyway, with three votes against one. We made it over Vail pass, the rear wheels spinning much of the way. We stopped at Dillon for coffee and snacks. Nick had a massive headache, and I was (again) sure it was not wise to go on, but go on we did. I was on the edge of my seat the entire way. Scary!
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Final lunch stop on the way out, Bullet Canyon
Writing and photography by Jonathan, plus photo contributions by Nick Brown
Farrand Field, University of Colorado, from Room 285 of Farrand hall, March 18, 1983
Spring Break, March 20, 1983.
I am buried in my sleeping bag in my tent in the campground at Natural Bridges, Utah. Today is Sunday, March 20. Friday afternoon Nicholas (Brown), Joe (Rink), Jim (Kastner) and I piled in Nick‘s white Volvo and headed out of Boulder, amidst the snow. About a foot had accumulated on campus, and there was reportedly lots in the mountains, so we were worried about the drive.
We went through Eisenhower tunnel, crested Vail Pass, and cruised west towards Utah. It snowed the whole way. A couple of times it was snowing so hard that we had to stop. I was tense. I wish somehow I could get over that worried mind-set.
Somewhere out in Utah, March 19, 1983
On I-70, before turning off to Moab, the snow was falling so hard that we decided to pull over and wait out the storm in the car. The guys decided that possibly we might be able to sleep in the car. Big laugh! I couldn’t even come close to being able to fall asleep. So, after the snow stopped, I got out and walked down the road a bit and checked out a deserted house. When I got back to the car, the guys were all awake. We decided to go on.
We drove until we reached a random rest stop. Nicholas and I crashed out in sleeping bags on top of picnic benches. I was wary about the situation: It was still snowing lightly and very cold, but the only other alternative was to try and sleep in the car, in which Joe and Jim were already crashed out. I managed to get about four hours of sleep on top of the picnic bench.
Utah Landscape, March 19, 2023
The next morning we got up around seven and drove past Moab, Monticello, and down through Arches. It was pretty, but the power lines were ugly. We got to Natural Bridges around 2 PM. Steve Malmberg and his friend Thane, who had hitchhiked down from Montana, were there to meet us. We conversed with the Ranger a bit; he seemed very nice, but everyone else thought he was fresh out of Ranger Rick school.
On top of Sipapu Arch, photo by Nick
We set up our tents and got packed for a six-day trip. Preparations ready, we cruised out to see the Natural Bridges, first hiking down to see Siapupu Arch, which was spectacular, except for the metal staircases going down the cliffs. I suppose we wouldn’t have been able to stand on the arch, had the staircase and railings not been there!
Unloading bags from Nick's white Volvo, trailhead
It started snowing heavily, looking dark and ominous. We drove to the next two bridges, briefly braving the snow (and lightning) to see them. When we got back to camp it quieted down enough for us to eat dinner. However, it soon started snowing again, just as I was fixing my hot chocolate. It snowed really hard. I was freaking out, trying to keep the weight of the snow off the tent.
I crashed early. Nick came in after a while when the snow had stopped, and woke me up. I don’t think I slept too well - It was kind of cold - but I guess I did sleep. I had a dream that took place at some university. Wes and I were riding bicycles, and he fell over a cliff - I watched him fall - and then he died. It was really upsetting.
Jim unloading his gear at the trailhead
It was very cold this morning. We all got packed up in the car around 10am and drove to the Bullet Canyon trailhead. The roads were muddy, and Nick‘s car almost didn’t make it in some spots.
We finally packed up, hoisting our heavy backpacks, making our way down into the canyon, which was shallow at the outset. The sky: blue for a change, lifting my spirits. We hiked until 11:30 or so and took a lunch break. The hiking is great. This is really a primitive area, with no trails; we are basically following the stream, down into the Grand Gulch. The colors are spectacular, when the sun is out. Beautiful country!
Heading down into Bullet Canyon
We briefly checked out Jailhouse Ruin, and now are camped at the confluence of Bullet Canyon and Grand Gulch. I am perched upon a shelf, adjacent to two small prehistoric ruins. These ruins are great! There are lots of corn husks and pottery shards strewn about.
The sun is going down. The canyon walls are reminiscent of the Yampa-Green, or even the Grand Canyon. I feel close to those places now. Well, my left thumb is freezing. More later!
Jon, photo by Nick Brown
Monday, March 21, 1983
When I last wrote, the sun was quickly fading, and there was much do; food to prepare, and camp to set up. Following the beautifully clear day we had, the stars and the moon were now visible, with a slight haze around the moon, which made me pause. That usually means some kind of inclement weather is on the way.
Navigating a frozen pour-over, Bullet Canyon
Jim, Joe, Steve and Thane all slept in tents, while Nick and I slept under tree branches. I tried out Thane’s bivouac sack. It was really nice. He assured me it kept him warm and dry in snowstorms, and I stayed cozy all night.
We woke up to a gray-and-white shroud hanging over us like a wet blanket. Before I had anything to eat, I went to Bullet Canyon Springs and tried to find some water. I collected a quart, a painstaking process because it involved holding my canteen under a drip from an icicle.
Thane and Steve Malmberg
I would like to write a bit about the guys I am with. It’s a pretty good group. There’s me, Nick, Steve Malmberg (who, like Nick and me, also went to Los Alamos High School). Steve is straight, and doesn’t touch drugs. He has blonde hair and dresses like I do, with the parka /wool pants / alpaca hat combination.
Along with Steve is Thane. I always think of ‘Thane of Glamis’, the lead character in Macbeth, whenever I hear his name. He has long curly brown hair and a quiet, sure, optimistic manner. He seems genuine. He says he’s backpacked a lot in Yellowstone. He is a history major in Montana, which is also where Steve goes to school.
Bullet Canyon
With us also are Joe Rick and Jim Kastner. Joe is from Denver, but goes to school in Boulder. He’s kind of the ‘City Joe’, meaning not very used to backpacking. However, he is enthusiastic. He brought his tunes with him, something I would never do backpacking. But I do like him. He smokes a lot of pot with Jim, who also goes to school in Boulder. Jim is from New Jersey. It’s his first time out here. He seems to like it, I guess. He seems like a cool guy. I thought he hated me at first. It’s hard to tell, though.
Joe Rink, photo by Nick
Jim Kastner, photo by Nick
Today we started hiking pretty late. The canyon is really beautiful. I heard a Canyon Wren and saw several hawks. There are a multitude of far-out weeds that I am dying to sketch. Perhaps I can do so on a layover day.
Nick Brown, after setting up the tent, Grand Gulch
We are in grand Gulch now. We had hoped to get to Drip Canyon, but we decided to camp a mile or so before it. We crossed the stream many times today! My feet got wet after so many incorrectly-judged landings. I could just wear my tennis shoes and walk through the water, but it feels too cold for that.
Sign of a stressful trip?
We inspected some neat ruins today. One had several kivas, with pieces of flat sandstone as doorways, and big living areas, all decorated with some sort of green paint. The doorways are all shaped like keyholes. I wonder why? It’s hard to imagine people living here.
Snowfall in Grand Gulch
It’s raining lightly in the tent. We have the candle going, and it’s nice and cozy. Too bad Polly isn’t in here with me instead of Nick!
March 22, 1983
Today is the 22nd of March. It Is strange how things progressed since last night. When I finished writing, it was raining; pretty softly, at least. I guess I fell asleep for a while, but then I woke up again, noticing that the outside of my bag and the inside of the tent were sticking together in a wet sort of way. When I deduced that there was snow on the rain fly, I tried to push it off, but it didn’t move. I freaked out a little; got dressed (waking up Nick) and jumped outside. Snow! Lots of it!
Snowfall over the tent, Grand Gulch
This time the snow was wet and dense, good for making snowballs. I brushed it off and re-adjusted the tent, putting two sticks under the middle of the tie-downs so the fly could be separated from the main tent. I tried to go back to sleep, but was uncomfortable (and a little tense). I finally dozed off, but Nick woke me up when I heard him exclaim, “Fuck”! When he looked outside.
There was about 4 inches of snow on the ground, with fat little flakes floating down from the gray sky above. My sleeping bag and pad were both soaked, as was the tent floor on my side. I rushed outside and kind of stood around, waiting for everyone to get up.
Drying out on the ledge, Grand Gulch
What we finally did was to move everything up to the ledge underneath the overhang that Steve had found the evening before (where he had also suggested we set up camp). It was completely dry in spots, and the spots that weren’t completely dry were dry enough. We brought everything up to the ledge, spreading out our wet gear to dry. At least we have a dry place to sleep tonight! The snow is melting quickly, and water is pouring over every conceivable pour-over spot. To the left of our camp, water is coursing down in what looks like a mini flash-flood.
Jon's Jansport backpack
We figured out that we are now in Step Canyon, right over Step spring. We are staying here today. If it’s bad tomorrow, we will go back up to the Bullet / Grand Gulch confluence, to be closer to the car. I hope the weather stays nice!
Snowy canyon, Grand Gulch
Right now the sun is shining and I am perched on the top of a marvelous sloping lump of terraced sandstone, looking at a panoramic view. All the runoff has created mini waterfalls, reminiscent of the Sierra Nevada, except here it’s all on sandstone, not granite. It’s incredible when the sun comes out! My whole attitude changes.
This place is such a playground, a mini river Canyon! If everything were increased in size about five times, it might reach the proportions of the Grand Canyon.
Jim Kastner and Jonathan Machen in Grand Gulch
There’s no civilization, only me and some friends. Things here take time; the only evidence of which is the way the sandstone has been sculpted by the never-ending grind of water. Things are basically the same as when the Anasazi left. Their dwellings are everywhere, evidence of their existence. I feel as if I am in an area untouched by modern man. If I ever have children, will they experience any of this? Would it even be fair to bring them into the world? Who knows what the condition of the world may be, when I finally do?
The clouds are much puffier, with definite patches of blue scattered about, opening to spotted sunshine. It still looks like it could snow. No one can see me here, perched up on my roost like a king surveying his dominion. I have never seen a King survey his kingdom. That is the influence of education on me. I have not experienced it directly, only indirectly. So is it worthwhile to my life? I am so glad that I am here, and not home, at the moment. I meditated this morning, and even in my tense state, I felt it helped calm me.
Nicholas on the day hike to the rim
March 23, 1983
I am writing with my gloves, it’s so cold. Yesterday we woke up fairly late and got prepared for a day hike up Dripping canyon. Joe, Jim, Nick and I went, leaving Steve and Thane to hang around camp. The hike was intense. There were many spots we had to cross. Not wanting to get my shoes wet, Nick and I tried to keep to the bank, and jump across where we could.
We finally got to Dripping Canyon, and headed up to the rim. The sky was full of puffy clouds. We found a spot to climb up and out, and once we got to the top, found large potholes full of water. We hung around and explored for a while, then headed back to camp. My hiking boots were now very wet,. It took Nick and me a long time to get back to camp. We spent agonizing moments in several spots poised on the river bank before jumping over the water. It is no fun to have wet feet!
Pools of water on the rim
The night was perfectly clear. After dinner, we sat around the fire and discussed the question of wealth versus poverty. Joe was very honest in his feelings. He said, sure, there are starving people in this world, but I am not one of them. I have definite goals and I wish to attain them. If I am one of the humans on this earth who is able to live life in that way, let me, because if I don’t, someone else will.
Nicholas, Jonathan and Joe Rink on the rim
Steve, especially, was opposed to this way of thinking. His morals and ideals were completely opposite. He reminded me of Gandhi. I think Joe’s views were more realistic, but Steve’s position admirable. I said very little; I thought it better to observe and keep my thoughts to myself.
Nicholas, Jonathan and Joe Rink on the rim
I had a bad dream early in the morning. I was crawling about on some roof, searching for pieces of scrap metal, and suddenly, in the corner of my eye, I saw a blinding flash of light. When I turned around, I saw an atomic blast, a huge orange and red mushroom cloud, which meant the end of everything. I screamed and woke up, looking around to make sure it was a dream. If that dreadful moment does happen, there will be no turning back. I hope I never see it. I am scared to death of nuclear war, perhaps made more aware of it by growing up in Los Alamos.
Rim view, above Grand Gulch
When we woke up, it was gray and gloomy again. Soon, it started snowing. We threw all our stuff together (dry for the moment) and headed out. My head was - once again - full of anxiety. I wanted to keep my boots on, because I did not want to face walking in my running shoes through the freezing water. Soon, however, it became apparent that if we did not walk through the water, we would get nowhere fast. At this point, it had stopped snowing, but once we started walking through the water, it began to snow again. The combination of soaking wet feet and snow hit us like a train, with the specter of hypothermia rearing its head.
Taking shelter under an overhang
Sure enough, Nicholas mentioned that his feet were getting too cold. Perhaps it would be wise to find some kind of shelter, and build a fire? I spotted an overhang, which we reached quickly: small but dry and sufficient, where we found enough dry wood to start a fire. Looking out from this perch, we could see the snow coming down in waves. The canyon was filled with white, gusting blankets of snow.
Snowstorm from the overhang, where we attempted to warm up
Steve and Thane decided to hike on out, because Steve had only one pair of shoes, which were soaked. Once at the trailhead, their plan was to start hitchhiking to Montana. I hope they make it!
Nicholas, hiking out of Grand Gulch
There ensued a long discussion between the four of us remaining of whether or not to go on. I complained that it would be stupid to continue to walk through the water in the snow, and so it was agreed try to keep our boots on, and stick to the bank. Finally, after the snow stopped around 2pm, we changed back into our sneakers, deciding to walk through the water. The thought of being closer to the car seemed much nicer than being holed up in grand Gulch, so we kept going.
Nick Brown, Joe Rink, Jim Kastner, Grand Gulch
We cruised along the river bottom. Now, both of my shoes were soaked. The sun came out, only to disappear behind gray clouds, whereupon it snowed on us again. Finally, we came to the confluence of Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon. From there made the ramaining distance to Jailhouse ruin. We set up camp there, along with another couple and their dog, who also hailed from Colorado.
Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
It is kind of neat camping in the same spot that the Anasazi did 700 years ago! (No doubt that would be illegal now). Jailhouse ruin is quite big and well preserved. There is a big hut with a roof, a kiva, and several other ruins of rooms. There are rocks all over with signs of corn grinding, lots of pottery shards, and corn husks.
Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
March 25, 1983
Once again, I am cold. The sun is receding behind a bank of clouds. It looks like it will probably snow again today. We are hiking out, hopefully getting back to Boulder Saturday night. Time to go get something good to eat!
Somebody's Dog, Jailhouse Ruin, Grand Gulch
(Later): the rest of the day was quite hectic. We stayed by the fire for a long time, just warming up and getting psyched for the march out. Amazingly, the sky cleared up. We got packed up and left our Anasazi camp. It was very pleasant walking, since the sun was now out, giving everything a cheerful countenance. Nicholas and I would have stayed another day, but both Joe and Jim were low on food and adamant on leaving and getting back to Boulder as soon as possible. I had enough food to remain, and I think I was more prepared than those guys. I had definitely been worried about the food situation before we left. As it was, Joe and Jim had just barely enough food to last.
Hiking out of Bullet Canyon
The hike out went fast, as we were pretty close to the car. We stopped and had lunch at the difficult icy portage spot that we encountered on our way down. It only took us 40 minutes or so to get to the car from the lunch spot. When we got to the top of the canyon, there was a sea of mud, with no option other than to walk through the deep, squishy stuff.
Hiking back to the car, Bullet Canyon
We threw our stuff in Nick’s white Volvo and started off, only to be stopped by a massive mud hill, after only 100 yards. The mud was so deep and thick from the melted snow that we had no traction and were unable to crest the hill. We tried several times, with no luck. Nick suggested that before putting his chains on, we might fill the tracks with bushes (it didn’t help). It began snowing again, with a corresponding drop in temperature. Finally, Nick put the chains on, and we made it out on the first try!
The backpackers' perspective
We decided to drive straight through to Boulder. At one point, I took over driving until we reached Glenwood Springs. There, we were informed that Vail pass was closed because of snow. Nick and the others decided to go for it anyway. I was (again) really worried. Would that not be a dumb thing to do? However, we pressed on anyway, with three votes against one. We made it over Vail pass, the rear wheels spinning much of the way. We stopped at Dillon for coffee and snacks. Nick had a massive headache, and I was (again) sure it was not wise to go on, but go on we did. I was on the edge of my seat the entire way. Scary!
Final lunch stop on the way out, Bullet Canyon
solo/group kukai
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen