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Issue # 283, January 2, 2024 Antibes
Journal, January 2, 2024 Antibes
Our final day in Antibes! We all wanted to go to the Picasso Museum. It was fortunate that Orion had not visited it yet, so we could experience it together as a family. Orion and I left first, but before entering, I did a quick sketch of the building from the outside corner, as it was fully illuminated by the early morning sun's rays, and finished it up in gouache that evening.
Picasso’s assembled artwork at the museum was made during his stay in at the Castle Grimaldi in Antibes, from September to October of 1946. (Orion and Soren lived within a stone’s throw of this building, which was later turned into the museum). Picasso produced an amazing amount of art, most all of which he donated to the castle.
Picasso, during his stay in Antibes, exhibited an explosive creativity. His work is not quite abstract and not quite realistic, but abstractions of reality, or breakdowns and extrapolations of reality; and of course he is famous for precipitating changes in modern art.
It was so interesting to see not only his painted works, but his sculptural experiments with ceramics, as well as in several large concrete sculptures of modified busts.
It was also interesting to see the entire space devoted to housing his creations. Picasso was a seminal figure in the world of art, and yet I had to wonder, what did it all mean to the visitors who came through the museum? Nearly everyone, including me, was taking pictures of his artwork with their cell phones.
Were they moved? Does one only take a picture when one is moved? Was Picasso able to transmit something essential to people after his life had ended? What did his scribbles and plates and sculptures really amount to?
Phoenix commented, as we were standing outside on the terrace (which had other neat sculptures by different artists), that you could substitute preschoolers’ drawings for some of the pieces, and it would have the same effect. I don’t completely agree. Goodness knows I could probably start a museum with all of Phoenix’s pre-school art (which I have, of course, kept).
What seemed remarkable was Picasso’s extreme inventiveness. And after all, he had the freedom to do exactly what he wanted, since he was wealthy, and successful in his career.
In addition to Picasso’s work, there was a significant collection of Juan Miro’s paintings on display. The two men were friends.
We checked out the cathedral next to the museum, then went back to the apartment for lunch. Afterwards we headed out for a walk to Fort Carré, the star-shaped military bastion that overlooks the port of Antibes as well as the whole town.
Along the way there we passed the dockyards where yachts were being repaired. Several of them were raised on blocks so the hulls could be repaired. What an expense, to own a yacht which has to be maintained! We speculated on the cost that might be.
Fort Careé had character, as far as military barracks go. Built in the mid 16th century as a defensive stronghold for King Henri II, it has an unusual star-shaped design that incorporates angles to deflect cannon balls, and interesting spaces inside, including a circular barracks at the center and with curved walkways all around.
The view from the ramparts was excellent. We slowly poked through the various rooms. Orion and Phoenix exhibited a brotherly playfulness here, like in days of old when they were much younger.
As we walked back to town, I expressed a desire to do a sketch (I know: such an unusual proposition, coming from me); Paige wanted to chill out with a glass of wine, and Orion wanted to take Phoenix to a local hardware store he liked.
Midway into a drawing of one of the archways that led to Orion's rental apartment. I got a text from mom: Her time, it was 8am! Why did she want a FaceTime conversation with me so early in the morning? Immediately, I sensed something was wrong. I put aside my drawing and was able to make a face-time connection with her.
There she was, looking a little sheepish, even apologetic; and she described to me what had happened: she broke her left elbow by falling off a curb, while watching a cute Asian kid cross the road with their parents. Oh no!!
I went back to the apartment, where the internet was better, so we could continue our conversation. Unfortunately, this will all set her back a bit. Patty is already in Los Alamos with her, and now it looks like I will also be heading there, once we are back in the US, to take over for Patty, as now a surgery is scheduled. So, with this situation in my thoughts, we went out for our last meal in Antibes, once again walking the narrow alleys and streets of the old town.
Right now: Paige, Phoenix, and I are on the 2nd flight of our return journey, about to land in Boston in an hour and a half. We went through a stressful transition at the Munich airport, where our delayed plane in Nice meant we had only about half an hour to make it through customs and to get a LONG WAY to a separate terminal. However, we made it in time, to our relief!
Orion took a separate flight from Nice (we had to make his reservation back in September). His flight was also delayed, but he was flying directly to Denver, whereas we had to stop in Boston first. We ended up making a rendezvous with him in the Nice airport while he was standing in line waiting to board. It was an unexpected and lovely surprise to see him there.
Journal, January 2, 2024 Antibes
Our final day in Antibes! We all wanted to go to the Picasso Museum. It was fortunate that Orion had not visited it yet, so we could experience it together as a family. Orion and I left first, but before entering, I did a quick sketch of the building from the outside corner, as it was fully illuminated by the early morning sun's rays, and finished it up in gouache that evening.
Picasso’s assembled artwork at the museum was made during his stay in at the Castle Grimaldi in Antibes, from September to October of 1946. (Orion and Soren lived within a stone’s throw of this building, which was later turned into the museum). Picasso produced an amazing amount of art, most all of which he donated to the castle.
Picasso, during his stay in Antibes, exhibited an explosive creativity. His work is not quite abstract and not quite realistic, but abstractions of reality, or breakdowns and extrapolations of reality; and of course he is famous for precipitating changes in modern art.
It was so interesting to see not only his painted works, but his sculptural experiments with ceramics, as well as in several large concrete sculptures of modified busts.
It was also interesting to see the entire space devoted to housing his creations. Picasso was a seminal figure in the world of art, and yet I had to wonder, what did it all mean to the visitors who came through the museum? Nearly everyone, including me, was taking pictures of his artwork with their cell phones.
Were they moved? Does one only take a picture when one is moved? Was Picasso able to transmit something essential to people after his life had ended? What did his scribbles and plates and sculptures really amount to?
Phoenix commented, as we were standing outside on the terrace (which had other neat sculptures by different artists), that you could substitute preschoolers’ drawings for some of the pieces, and it would have the same effect. I don’t completely agree. Goodness knows I could probably start a museum with all of Phoenix’s pre-school art (which I have, of course, kept).
What seemed remarkable was Picasso’s extreme inventiveness. And after all, he had the freedom to do exactly what he wanted, since he was wealthy, and successful in his career.
In addition to Picasso’s work, there was a significant collection of Juan Miro’s paintings on display. The two men were friends.
We checked out the cathedral next to the museum, then went back to the apartment for lunch. Afterwards we headed out for a walk to Fort Carré, the star-shaped military bastion that overlooks the port of Antibes as well as the whole town.
Along the way there we passed the dockyards where yachts were being repaired. Several of them were raised on blocks so the hulls could be repaired. What an expense, to own a yacht which has to be maintained! We speculated on the cost that might be.
Fort Careé had character, as far as military barracks go. Built in the mid 16th century as a defensive stronghold for King Henri II, it has an unusual star-shaped design that incorporates angles to deflect cannon balls, and interesting spaces inside, including a circular barracks at the center and with curved walkways all around.
The view from the ramparts was excellent. We slowly poked through the various rooms. Orion and Phoenix exhibited a brotherly playfulness here, like in days of old when they were much younger.
As we walked back to town, I expressed a desire to do a sketch (I know: such an unusual proposition, coming from me); Paige wanted to chill out with a glass of wine, and Orion wanted to take Phoenix to a local hardware store he liked.
Midway into a drawing of one of the archways that led to Orion's rental apartment. I got a text from mom: Her time, it was 8am! Why did she want a FaceTime conversation with me so early in the morning? Immediately, I sensed something was wrong. I put aside my drawing and was able to make a face-time connection with her.
There she was, looking a little sheepish, even apologetic; and she described to me what had happened: she broke her left elbow by falling off a curb, while watching a cute Asian kid cross the road with their parents. Oh no!!
I went back to the apartment, where the internet was better, so we could continue our conversation. Unfortunately, this will all set her back a bit. Patty is already in Los Alamos with her, and now it looks like I will also be heading there, once we are back in the US, to take over for Patty, as now a surgery is scheduled. So, with this situation in my thoughts, we went out for our last meal in Antibes, once again walking the narrow alleys and streets of the old town.
Right now: Paige, Phoenix, and I are on the 2nd flight of our return journey, about to land in Boston in an hour and a half. We went through a stressful transition at the Munich airport, where our delayed plane in Nice meant we had only about half an hour to make it through customs and to get a LONG WAY to a separate terminal. However, we made it in time, to our relief!
Orion took a separate flight from Nice (we had to make his reservation back in September). His flight was also delayed, but he was flying directly to Denver, whereas we had to stop in Boston first. We ended up making a rendezvous with him in the Nice airport while he was standing in line waiting to board. It was an unexpected and lovely surprise to see him there.
solo/group kukai
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen